pH. This is a measure of the acidity of your pool water. pH level can affect everything from algae growth and corrosion to comfort and cleanliness. It can also affect the effectiveness of the other chemicals in your swimming pool. An ideal pH is 2 and 6 parts per million (PPM). If your pool’s pH is too high or too low, you can use a chemical increaser or decreaser as needed.
Total alkalinity. Alkalinity directly affects your pool’s pH. For example, if your swimming pool’s total alkalinity is too high, your pH will also be too high. If your alkalinity is too low – you guessed it -- your pH will also be too low. You’ll want your pool’s alkalinity to be around 100 PPM.
Calcium hardness. Calcium is always present in swimming pool water. However, when calcium levels are too high or too low, you could be looking at a range of issues such as corrosion and scaling. Aim for a calcium content of 100-400 PPM. Use a hardness increaser to raise calcium levels, and use a sequestering agent to lower your calcium (both products are available in any pool supply or hardware store).
Pro tip: Closing your pool for the season? Consider investing in winterizing chemicals to keep your pool water chemistry balanced and on track. You can visit a local pool professional retailer to learn more.
One critical component of pool closing: chlorine level. Chlorine prevents algae, breaks down bacteria, and keeps your pool clean and fresh. Before you shut things down for the season, it’s a good idea to hit your pool with an extra-powerful punch of chlorine in the form of a shock treatment. Shocking your pool is easy: Use a shock treatment to bring your 10 to 12 PPM. Then, wait a day or two for the chlorine to come down to its normal level, about 5 to 5 PPM.
Remove all skimmer baskets, heaters, slide, wall fittings, vacuums, pool cleaners, ladders and handrails. Clean all items, allow them to dry thoroughly, and store them in a safe, dry place. Once the equipment is out of the way, remove all debris from the pool using a net, a soft broom, or even a leaf rake.
Each type of swimming pool has unique requirements for winterizing. An above ground pool might have slightly different winterizing needs than an inground pool. Each type of pool filter has a unique shutdown process. Check with your pool professional to learn how to properly winterize your pool, minimize damage, and ensure safety.
You can either use your filter pump or a submersible pump to lower your pool water level. You'll need to lower the level about 4 to 6 inches below the lowest plumbing line, normally the water return line. Be sure the water level is at least below the skimmer. You can remove the above ground pool skimmer.
Your pump, filter, heater, and chlorinator all have a drain plug. Either drain the water out of these or blow the lines out with a shop vac. From there, it's time to clean your pool filter: Sand filters and Diatomaceous Earth (DE) filters will need to be backwashed, then disconnected and stored in a safe, dry place. Cartridge filters must be thoroughly cleaned and allowed to dry completely (this is also a good time to inspect your cartridge filter for any damage).
If the filter is small enough, you might be able to take it apart and store it for the winter. Keep the plugs out of these units. If you plug them back up and water happens to get into them, they might freeze over and crack your equipment.
Pro tip: Place all the plugs in the skimmer basket during your pool winterization maintenance. That way, you'll know where they are when you need them next spring.
If you have a chemical feeder, drain and empty it. Leaving chemicals in your chemical feeder during swimming pool winterization can damage your equipment. Remember to put the top back on the chemical feeder and be sure to wear safety goggles and gloves.
Use a solid swimming pool cover that keeps out all debris, blocks the sun, and inhibits algae growth. And don’t forget the air pillow! Air pillows to fit under your winter pool cover, and they help relieve pressure -- and protect your pool’s walls -- as your pool water freezes. Air pillows can also keep leaves, debris, and water from collecting in the center of your pool cover.
It’s a warm day, and all you can think about the crystal blue water of your swimming pool. But just as you’re about to dive in, you notice something: Cloudy pool water.
Not only is cloudy pool water unattractive, but swimming pools with cloudy water can even pose health risks. That’s because cloudy pool water can contain harmful bacteria such as E. coli and Legionella. What’s more, pool water that’s cloudy can even damage your pool and its circulation system.
Aside from the obvious — who wants to swim in THAT? —cloudy pool water can result in some serious issues. It can stain the sides of your pool, and corrode some components of your pool, including the accessories. It can also cause some health concerns if bacteria is the cause.
When you add pool sanitizer – like chlorine or bromine -- to the water, you increase its ability to attack the debris that ends up floating on top of or sinking to the bottom of your pool. Debris includes falling leaves, dirt, and pollen. But it also comes from the people who use your pool: think sunscreen, beauty products, sweat and even urine (it’s gross, but it’s true).
Chlorine and bromine both act to battle the bacteria in your pool, but bromine is more resilient. Once chlorine combines with bacteria, it is eliminated from the pool water. But bromine continues to sanitize your pool even after combining with bacteria. For this reason, bromine is more expensive than chlorine.
But here’s the deal: As your pool sanitizer break downs all of that debris and organic matter, it depletes over time – and this means it’s less effective at breaking down that dirt, debris, and bacteria.
Www.Goldcoastpoolbuilders.ComThe sun also depletes the pool sanitizer levels. When the ultraviolet rays hit the water, they break up the hypochlorite ions, which work to sanitize the water as you add chlorine to your pool.
And finally, algae can also affect your pool sanitizer’s ability to keep the water clean. Not only does algae make it difficult to see what’s in the pool, but – like other organic matter – it depletes your pool sanitizer, making it less effective.
The takeaway: Pool sanitizer isn’t meant to be added once and then forgotten. To keep it working effectively – and to keep your pool water from becoming cloudy -- you will need to add bromine or chlorine regularly.
Although chlorine might be the better-known pool sanitizer, bromine is equally effective when it comes to killing bacteria. The main difference: Bromine has a lower pH, which means it’ll help keep your water chemistry stable. It also performs better in high temperatures. Chlorine, on the other hand, delivers faster results and is slightly more affordable than bromine.
If your pool filter system is clogged up or your pump isn’t performing well, it can cause cloudy water. And to keep your water looking crystal clear, you should run your filtration system at least eight hours a day.
The takeaway: When your filter isn’t clean – whether you have a cartridge filter, a sand filter, or a diatomaceous earth (or “DE”) filter -- the water filtered through it won’t be distributed well by the pressure side of the circulation system. So, keeping your filter and pump clean, maintained, and in good working order will help you avoid cloudy pool water.
If your pool chemicals are out of balance, your pool could develop cloudy water. For example, high levels of pH mean your water isn’t acidic enough — and that can lead to cloudy water. High pH will also cause a scale buildup on your pool’s plumbing and surfaces, as well as problems with filtration and bacteria growth.
And if your pool alkaline levels are too high, it could also cause cloudy water. That’s because a high level of alkalinity won’t help stabilize the pH balance, and that causes the water to form scale. What’s more, a high alkaline level can cause metal pitting and possible damage to the vinyl.
Low levels of free chlorine - chlorine in its purest form - can also lead to cloudy water. If a test strip indicates that your free chlorine levels are low, you probably have chloramine, which is combined chlorine. That makes your water smell like chlorine, and you guessed it, turns it cloudy.
The takeaway: To ensure your pool chemical levels are correct, use a test kit that comes with test strips. By testing your water periodically, you can help ensure that your pool water never goes cloudy.
Your first step in eliminating cloudy pool water is to give your pool a deep clean. Start by removing all of the large debris from the pool. You can use a heavy-duty skimmer or your hands if you can reach it. Next, using a good pool brush, clean the walls of your pool. After you have removed all of the debris and dirt, use a pool vacuum to clean it.
Which pool brush is right for you? That depends on your pool’s surfaces: If you’ve got a gunite or concrete pool, you might want to choose a brush with stiffer bristles, such as stainless steel. If you’ve got a vinyl liner, a nylon or polypropylene brush, which will do the job without damaging your pool’s walls. Need more ideas? Check out our buyers' guide to pool brushes, nets and poles here.
Pool shock – also known as pool clarifier -- is essentially a super-high dose of chlorine that removes combined chlorine molecules and takes away the cloudiness caused by debris, bacteria, or algae in the process.
If you don’t use chlorine in your pool, anon-chlorine pool shock will have the same effect. Keep in mind that if you shock your pool to get rid of algae, you may have to double or even triple shock it, depending on which type of algae is in your pool.
Every pool clarifier is a little different, so it’s important that you read the instructions that come with your pool clarifier before you start using it. If you need help selecting a clarifier for your pool, check out our buyers' guide to pool clarifiers here. In general, though, you’ll follow the similar steps no matter which product you choose:
Add clarifier to your pool water. The package will tell you how much clarifier to use. The amount you need depends on the size of your pool and how many gallons it holds.
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